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150Rude

I have a E150GLERV Evinrude Intruder.

Ok, in the fall, the stator failed, and apparently fried the rectifier and overheated the engine main harness, I noticed my tack signal became erratic and had low voltage (12.8 at the most), it would appear to charge when cold (but a low reading), then when the engine was warm, the tack would quit and voltage would drop to 11.8-12.2. Not sure if this affected my performance, but it seemed to have less top end power. I ohm tested the stator, and it was out of spec, rectifier was out of spec)

Ok, fast forward to now. I now have a new battery, rectifier, stator, and main engine harness. I checked, cleaned, and tightened all connections. I also added the rectifier cooling modification to purge air from the top of the block.

When I fired the motor up, everything worked great, charging was right in spec, voltage was up to where it should be etc, and I have put about 10-15 hours on the engine.

Today, I was running and the tach starting jumping around and I noticed the voltage was down around 12.1 at 4000rpm. I came off plane and shut down. I pulled the engine cover, and fired it back up, made sure it was not overheating, and that no connections had come loose, everything was good.

So. I’ve yet to check everything (still fuming), but it appears I have gone through another rectifier.

(By the way, all the replacement parts, rectifier, stator, and main wiring harness are CDI)

So... any suggestions from anyone? I'm dumbfounded at this point.

I will go through the wiring again and see if there is something amiss, but I'm surprised it lasted this long if there is a wiring issue.

Does anyone have any suggestions? My brain is toast from thinking about this.

Oh yeah, and I didn't get any fish today.

We can call that the icing on the cake.

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taglic

I checked the OMC Parts Catalog,  http://12.2.215.22/pub/default.asp?SessionId=a5bdc1860c4342d2b746524885696096&Lang=EN&brands=EJ   and this motor uses a rectifier/regulator assy combined in one unit. Not sure what manufacturer CDI is but I have always had the best performance using original OMC Parts. There are other OEM suppliers but the quality always seems inferior.

Carl Tagliabue
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amackhrandilal
Please also consider removing the batteries and bring it to an auto parts store and have a "Load and Charge" test done, if the battery is defective and not taking a charge or grounded plates etc it will destroy the rectifier every time ! Just a thought..
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150Rude

That's probably a good idea, it is new but I've seen stranger things. I've gone over the wiring again, and there is nothing amiss there, I'm going to verify there is nothing shorting out in the keyswitch tonight.

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outboardwizard

Hello quick test for rectifier is with key on not running check for voltage at Grey wire at rectifier. If any voltage rectifier is bad. with engine running voltage should be around 9 volts.

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150Rude
Ok, Chapter 2....rewired dash, found some horrible wiring practices. I isolated the dash and accecories from the ignition circuit.
Replaced all outboard wiring, including the primary battery cables to the powerhead. 

Did several cursory checks of the wiring. No grounded circuits found. I ran a seperate ground for all the systems, installed a new fuse block and re-terminated all connections.

installed new regulator. It was dead as soon as the engine started. No explanation, not even a tic on the tachometer.

Anyone want to buy a boat?.....Nothing likes spending your week off staring at a boat in the driveway. 

unfortunately I cannot locate a OMC mechanic in my area. so, if i can't do this, it won't get done. Is there something I'm missing?

From what i've been told only a few things kill a regulator, crossed wires, dead short, (and over time) high resistance in the battery wires.
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amackhrandilal
Do you have a manual for this engine ? You need to remove the harness and tone out each wire, I have a brand new harness from CDI here with me that was pinned out to the round plug incorrectly. Trust me you will resolve this. Please download this PDF and locate your engine and you can test most of the electrical for the correct voltage etc.
Using IE or Firefox
ftp://24.110.138.176
USER NAME=publicuser
PASSWORD=evinrude
Please download the document that Troubleshooting Manual it about 14 Meg, it has the step by step stuff you need for your engine please read it carefully and trust me it will help you.
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amackhrandilal
PS
Very important have the batteries load tested even if they are new they can develop problems internally like fused plates etc

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150Rude
Thanks allot. I've done troubleshooting based on what my manuals say, I have the evinrude manual, and the Clymer Manual. I'll also pull the battery and have it properly load tested to be safe.

I'm pulling the data you provided now, thanks so much. I appreciate going the extra mile on this. If I don't identify this problem, I was going to be lost. I know there has to be an identifiable problem. I just need to find it.
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amackhrandilal
I know you did replace the Stator however a defective regulator can cause the the Stator to burn, using a flash light carefully look under the flywheel for burn stuff dripping from the stator any sign of this indicates possible failure
However use the instructions and test everything just once more you will find it

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150Rude
I'll pull the top of the engine to take a look at the stator, but It appears to be shot. Both the Stator and the Requlator were replaced at the same time. I"m surprised they both went.  I've check the wiring, it's new from CDI, but I checked it anyway.

The stator is't shorted, and appears to be within the ohm range, but generates no tach signal when the engine is running. 


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amackhrandilal
CDI does have a one year warranty you may want to contact them directly.
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