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polarispete

Hello- I just tried to go on a  5 day fisihng trip but had to come home because my motor would not run! So here I am asking for some help before heading out to the dealer.My motor is a 2005 Johnson 2 stroke with not 5 hours running time on it.I bought it BN as a leftover and it ran excellent last Fall before putting it away.I did run it out of gas and oiled the cylinders.I started it up in my driveway with the muffs and it idles fine but when I tried to push the throttle forward it started sputtering and would not go above 2000 rpms.I changed the plugs, ( 2 BN plugs)  and it seemed better.So off I went. Got to the lake and launched the boat and it started right up, idled perfectly and as I got out of the harbor, I pushed the lever forward and no power at all.I pulled the lever back and it idled great.I go back to the dock, change tanks as both have new gas in them.No luck again. Back to the dock, take the plastic cover off the front of the carbs, no mice nests, bees nests.Out of the harbor once again and no power again.I can see gas spurting past the 2 butterflys but no poer again. I push in the key yo engage the choke and it starts to gain some power and rpms but only for a second or 2 and then same thing, no power.I idles back to the harbor, put it on the trailer and home here I am.Can anyone help me out with this? Shame to as the warranty just ran out over the Winter.

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bowl1979

I'm going to say it is in safe mode. The manual says that before it will run all sensors or switches have to be in a good to go state. Witch one yours is is hard to say, check to see if it is getting oil, our problem was sort of the same on a brand new evinrude I am going to copy and paste this because I wrote it to some one else to so heres what we did.

we had the same problem with a new motor. the oil light was on then the engine light. which put it in safe mode. I did some reading and machanics and swaped some parts and did not change anything, so more reading and machanics and come to find out that on some boats the ground from the battery just connected to the battery wont work. check to see if it is pumping oil if not pull full line off and let run out of fuel,this helps prime the oil pump buy from what I read releasinng pressure. then on top of the oil pump there are some wirers coming out like 6 or so. one is tan with white stripe, pull cover up off the wire some and cut the wire then use a butt conector and get a peice of wire twist the new peice of wire and one end of the tan wire with a white stripe and crimp butt connector then put the other side of the tan with a white stripe wire in the butt connector more or less adding a wire off the tan with a white stripe and ground the new wire to a bolt on the motor to ground it. the oil pump now pumps. our 90hp runs like a striped ape now, and no lights horns or problems.. this is after 3 days of problem solving and reading 2 evinrude service manuals and alot of head scratching I wouldn't beleave it with out doing it but it works.. On your problem, it is more than likely something stupied to, so dont give up the service book says the tan with white is a system grounding wire and from what I have read it goes to all kind of stuff all around the boat but it says to turn on the boat to on, not start it will go into a system check on the gauges and look under the hood on the motor on the side of the motor(on a evinrude) there are 4 test lights. with it in on it will tell if system is ok or not. if ok keep watching the lights and have someone start motor the lights come on to tell if its still ok butt always check oil to see if it is pumping.if all lights are on and system is good it might be the same problem...hope this helps some...

bowl1979
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polarispete

Thanks for the reply.All my test lights go off when the motor starts.Its pumping oil as you can see blue smoke coming out at start up.I have talked to 3 different dealers and all have said that it sounds like the carbs (High speed jets) have gotten gummed up over the Winter and have to be taken off and cleaned.The motor has got to have its first checkup since new anyway so I am taking it to a dealer next week as just about everyone I called is weeks behind.Thanks again and will let you know how I make out.PS- I think I may have the dealer disconnect the auto oiler when its there as It uses a portable 6 gallon tank anyway and I have always premixed my gas/oil anyway and by disconnecting the auto oiling system, no more bells and whistles and pumps to go out of whack.But I am told it has to be done by the dealer as there are some things that have to be done to do this.

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outboardwizard

Hello sorry for previos post . your engine is not an etec and only has 1 sensor that will activate slow mode . the tan lead coming from cylinder head will ground out when overheat or sensor malfunction and can be disconnected for testing purpose and will need to verify temp at head while running test. the tan lead from head goes to power pack to activate slow mode.

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polarispete

Thanks to all on the help with my motor but it was a simple fix.I stopped at a dealers and he told me to try some K-100 fuel conditioner.I figured it could not hurt as I could not have anyone look at the motor for a few weeks so I bought a bottle.I went home, emptied the 6 gl tank and added some of this K-100 and 1 gl of gas.I let the motor run at idle ( which it did before) and after a few minutes, the smoke started coming out of the exhaust.I let it run for about 5 minutes and shut it off. The next day I did the exact same thing.3 days later, the smoking quit and I tried to advance the throttle and it reved right up! I have done this now for a eek and the moor responds and runs great.Guess it was some residue in the carb bowls and after letting the K-100 mix sit in the carbs, it slowly dissolved the gunk and seems to be running 100% better than it did. Thanks again.

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kevimchale
I would never run a 2 stroke motor out of gas to winterize it.  What you are doing is drying out the motor intenals and making it run hot.  Which is hard on the pistons, cylinders, bearings, etc.  In either 2 or 4 stroke engines some gas is always left in the carbs/injectors anyways and it can gum or varnish up and cause the problems you had.

The easier and best way is to add the proper amount of gas stabilizer to your tank that is preferably full (so less condensation can happen in the tank ) and run the motor a few minutes to allow the treated gas to reach the carbs.

Then put  some oil for storage either in the cylinders, or spraying fogging oil down the carbs throats, etc.

In the spring your complete system has good gas in it, start the motor and let it burn off the storage oil and you are good to go.
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