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HybridMX6
Hello. I just purchased a used motor, 1994 Johnson 60hp VRO, and will be picking it up this weekend, 10/25. I figured for $300 the trim and tilt was worth that, but if I can get it running properly it's an even better deal. I will be doing more testing on it once I have it, including a leak-down test, but the seller said 2 cyls were 115psi, the other was only 85psi, so I am not sure if he got a bad reading or what is the cause. That's why I'm going to do some testing myself. My main questions would be are those normal #'s for this motor? Not the 85, but the 115psi? Need to know so I know if they are all low or not.
I would also like to see if there happen to be any quirks of this motor that I could try to take care of before mounting it on my boat. I have a 55hp commercial 2cyl on it now, so there's no rush on this one to get it fixed. I have heard the VRO's are sketchy and some people prefer to switch them over to pre-mixed gas instead of letting the VRO handle it. This is my first injected outboard, so I have no experience with the VRO system at all. I saw in another post about some coolant line that gets bubbles in it, so I guess I should check into that hose on top as well.
This motor is going to be on a stand in my back yard for a while as I work on it and get it running correctly, as well as build a center console for my boat., so any help and advice would be appreciated to keep me busy while it's easy to work on.
Thank You in advance
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marinermikes

The compression should be more like 125 to 135 although if they all read 115 it would probably run ok. That one low cylinder is not good. I would retest and go from there. You sre corret about the VRO's.I deem them unreliable. just my opinion.

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HybridMX6
Thanks for your reply so far. I picked it up over the weekend, and so far haven't had time to do much with it yet. I got the motor, controls, and prop all for $330. It has TnT as well, in case I haven't mentioned that yet. All I have done so far is get the motor on my stand and hook the wiring up so I can turn it over. TnT works great, motor turns over well, and to be honest the powerhead and everything under the hooks look damn good. I don't know if they cleaned this thing off before selling it or what. I'm going to run my own comp test in the next day or so, and a leak down test once my tool arrives (I had to order it), before I do anything else more major. First thing I did notice is the VRO has long since been disconnected and is gone. I got there to pick it up and asked where the tank was and the guy just said "what tank, that's all we got when they traded it in." It's an auto shop who had it, so I'm guessing it was payment for some sort of car repair. Right now my only question is this: He said it had low comp, as I stated earlier, and that it wouldn't stay running. I wouldn't think low comp like he stated (115, 115, 85) would cause that. I would think sitting and the carbs getting gunked up would though. Any other thoughts on that or what it could be?
Thanks
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marinermikes

The compression should be within ten percent of each other. If not it puts the motor off balance and they won't idle well. When you do another compression test make sure you hold the carbs open,

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HybridMX6
Ok. It's electic start, so will pushing the key in achieve the same as holding the carbs open?
I should be able to do the compression test tonight while I wait for my lead pot to warm up. I make fishing jigs on the side for extra money and have a lot to do tonight since I was gone all weekend. Wish I didn't have so many to make so I could spend more time playing with the motor. Oh well, there's always tomorrow.
Thanks for your advice so far, working on a boat engine is a new thing for me, so I have a lot to learn.
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HybridMX6
Ok, I did manage to have some time to check the comp last night. It's actually a bit worse than I first was told. Don't know if that's b/c the guy had ran it and it was warmed up or not, but it was cold when I did my check since I don't have a fuel tank for it yet, so I can't run it yet. Here's what I got on the cold motor, with carbs open: #1 cylinder on top: 75psi  #2 cylinder in the middle: 112psi  #3 cylinder on the bottom: 112psi.
I am going to try to pick up a tank today so I can get some premix in it and get it to run and see how bad the stall problem is. Also need it warmed up so I can do the leak down test on the cylinders. Just something I noticed when checking the comp last night though was #2 and #3 cylinders I could hear the suction through the spark plug holes as I rotated the crank by hand (i was looking at the pistons), but that #1 cylinder I couldn't hear anything. I may go ahead and try to order a head gasket too so I can pull it to check the cylinder, but the piston didn't look too bad, just dirty from carbon.
Any thoughts?
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marinermikes
Pushing the choke/primer button in will do nothing. Your motor has a primer not a choke when you push the button in it gives each carb a shot of fuel.
 When you take the head off most likely you will find the top cylinder scored. I hate to be the barer of bad news but it sounds like a rebuild is in order. I would also recommend that the carbs be gone over. If you have one that has a clogged jet it will eventually score the cylinder. If the cylinder isn't gtting gas it's not getting oil either. If you need parts see Ralph here on this site and he can get you what you need.   Mike
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outboardwizard

Hello if #1 is lower I would look for possible overheat problem.If cylinders are not scored try soaking in engine tuner.

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HybridMX6
Thank You for your reply. I've been playing with it today, and aven't really found much. I got a spare fuel tank and ran some seafoam through it to decarb it. Rechecked compression and it came out #1 83psi  #2 112psi  #3 112psi. I also hooked up the controls to see if the lower unit worked properly, but I can only get it into forward, I can't get reverse at all. I can get my controls into reverse, but not the lower unit. I had it like that, with the controls in reverse, and disconnected the cable, and it popped right back in the neutral location (the motor that is). I don't know why I can't get it into reverse. It's not like it goes in and nothing happens, I just can't get it in reverse, like someone may have removed the LU and not hooked it back up right or something is out of alignment. I don't really know what to do with that just yet.
For now, my main concern is getting it to run. I can start it, but it won't run at idle, I have to manually open the carbs to get it to stay running, and even then it's bogging or something. Right now my next step is 3 carb rebuild kits, and then rebuild them, and see if I can get it to idle. I am going to also get a head gasket so I can see about pulling the head off to check that top cylinder.
Only problem I am running into right now is the model/serial tag is missing. I was told to find a welch plug and get the #'s from it, but it only has the serial #, #G2532759. Someone told me I will have to call a shop to get them to cross ref. that so they can give me the M#. The only shop I have dealt with here in Orlando I did not like and don't trust, thus nothing of mine will ever be going back there again, and I'm not even going to call them.
Any thoughts on other ways to find out my M#? Or thoughts on the running condition, or the LU and no reverse? Sorry for so many questions, I'm just new to this outboard thing, since I've never worked on one before and don't know common troubleshooting procedures for them. I do own a Seloc manual, but it's for my 1999 55hp 2cyl Johnson commercial motor and it says it doesn't cover this year, only '96-'01, although I thought the 3cyl was mostly the same from '86 or so to '01. Just what I picked up from reading about it online in forums like this one, so I could easily be wrong.
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marinermikes

If you are trying to put the motor in reverse with it not running it may not go in. The clutch dog may not be alined right. Try rotating the flywheel at the same time and see if it will go in.

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HybridMX6
I tried when it was running a little bit, but it's so ornery about needing gas to keep running it's hard to do. I have to either keep bumping the key to squirt fuel in it or manually open the carbs or the motor just dies.
I've got the carbs off for now, so it's not going to be running for about a week or so, depending on how my first attempt at rebuilding carbs goes once I get the rebuild kits in.
I'm pretty sure something is just mis-aligned, or perhaps reverse is just fuggered. I will play with it some more though I am sure, since I'm going to be bored now and can't run it. Heck, I might even go fishin.
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HybridMX6

Any chance someone could help me out with cross referencing my S# G2532759 to a model #?  Hopefully this engine hasn't been rebuilt or that # is worthless. I know it's a 60hp, but don't know exact year and model #. I was just told it was a 1994, but would like to verify that.

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